How to: Makeup for deep set & hooded eyes

hooded and deep set eyes makeup

Applying eyeshadow can be tricky, because we all have different eye shapes. My eye shape is a mixture of hooded eyes and deep set eyes. I’ve definitely struggled with eyeshadows, but through fail and error, I’ve learned some important things. When you’re working with hooded or deep set eyes, it’s all about making your eyes appear more open and balancing the area between your brows and your eyes.

Hooded & deep set makeup tips

hooded eye

Here you can see my eye shape. My eyes are a bit hooded, which you can see when I look straight and don’t lift my eyebrow at all. With hooded eyes the skin droops over the crease causing the lid to appear smaller. My lids also droop in the outer corner, making cat eyeliners impossible. My eyes are also deep set, which means my eyes are deeper into my skull making the brow bone more prominent.

Hooded eyes and deep set eyes are very similar, because in both cases you don’t have that much visible lid space. Your brow bone and the hooded lid are what’s drawing in the attention and your eyes can appear ‘sunken’. And gorgeous. But you knew that, right?

How to contour hooded and deep set eyes?

how to do eyeshadow for hooded eyes

When you’re applying eyeshadow on deep set or hooded eyes, you’re always bringing the color way above your natural crease. Here you can see my natural crease – and where I actually contour my eye. I think of that as my “contour area” or “crease”, even though my natural crease is way lower.

When you’re doing your makeup, make sure you can see some eyeshadow, when your eye is open and relaxed. Other than that, you can choose how high you want to bring the color. I always bring my color right where the natural shadow occurs under my brow bone (more on it on this post about my ultimate makeup trick!).

An open contour.

With my eye shape this is where I should contour. It’s definitely above the crease. A neutral matte shade balances the eye when it’s brought here. It’s almost, like I’m faking my crease and imagining it’s somewhere this high.

An open contour is quick and easy to do and with a more neutral shade, it looks quite natural. It’s almost like a shadow floating on your lids. Except it contours your eyes and does them wonders.

Whenever I’m doing my makeup I always open my eyes and see how it looks that way. I even apply the shadow eyes open to get it just right.

A closed contour/banana contour.

This is a very basic eyeshadow style – contouring the eye in a banana shape. This compliments all eye shapes. The only difference is, in how high you bring the color (obviously with hooded or deep set eyes you bring it above your natural crease).

This is exactly the same as above except the color is brought in the outer corner as well. This makes the eye appear wider and if you bring it even further you can do a cat eye.

This is my eyeshadow base, almost always. After I’ve done this banana contour on my eye, I can just ‘fill in’ the blank space with whatever colors I want.

On to the tutorial!
The base for this eye makeup is that banana contour. That is the highest I bring any color. I apply other colors inside that contour or on top of it.

Hooded & deep set eyes makeup tutorial using the Naked 3 palette

hooded eyes makeup

I used the Naked3 palette*, which is a good basic palette. It has cool-toned mauve colors that suit blue and green eyes. I feel like you can do both casual everyday looks with the palette as well as more dramatic smokey eye looks.

  1. Prime your lids and set the primer, so that it’s not sticky.
  2. Start to contour your eyes using first lighter and then darker colors. I used first ‘Limit’ and then ‘Nooner’. I did a banana-shaped contour as the base for my eyeshadow. I also brought ‘Nooner’ on my lower lashline.
  3. Add a darker color in the outer part of your eye and slightly all over your contour area. Almost like in a banana contour way, but don’t bring it that high, leave some ‘Nooner’ to show on the edges. I applied just a touch of it on my lower lashline as well.
  4. Fill in the blank lid space with a lighter color. I used ‘Liar’ and ‘Factory’ mixed.
  5. Add your inner corner highlight ‘Strange’, line your eyes and add mascara.

Color placement paint-version.

hooded eyes makeup tutorial

I hope you liked this tutorial and learned something new! I’m currently working (who counts the years, right?) on a beginner’s beauty guide which contains both skincare and makeup tutorials. When it’s available, I’ll announce it here on my blog.

PRODUCTS makeup used in this look

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EYES
Urban Decay Primer Potion*
Urban Decay Naked 3*
Elizabeth Arden Lasting Impression Mascara
mad4eyebrows eyebrow filler, Blond (blog post!)

FACE
Estee Lauder Double Wear Light* 3 (blog post!)
Lumene Nordic-C BB-Cream, Light/Medium
Catrice Liquid Camouflage Concealer*, 15 & 10 (blog post!)
Maybelline Masterfix Baking Powder
Innisfree no-sebum mineral powder
Benefit Hoola
KikoMilano Desert Dunes Baked Blush, Gypsy Pink
MAC Mineralize Skinfinish, Soft & Gentle

LIPS
Jane Iredale Lipstick, Jamie
KICKS Lip Cream, Monday

Skincare for eyes

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The skin around eyes demand care just like the rest of our face. Actually it demands even more ’cause the skin there is thinner and more sensitive. Especially for heavy makeup users it’s the area that takes up the most of the products: primer, eye shadow, liner, mascara, fake lashes, concealer, another concealer.. etc.  Also – I have to confess that sometimes I use a heavy hand when removing my eye makeup when I know I shouldn’t use any force in the area.

So how should you take care of that skin area? It’s really quite simple.

  1. Use an eye makeup remover. Clean your eye area with a cleanser that suits eyes. Using the same product for face and eyes you only cause unnecessary burn and abrasion to the skin. There are 3-1 cleansers out there but as well as they work they irritate your eyes – at least that’s the case with my sensitive eyes. So remove your makeup using a gentle cleanser! I’m still looking for the perfect eye makeup remover but lately I’ve been using Decleor’s Aroma Cleanse Waterproof Cleanser and just coconut oil.

2. Use an eye cream. Moisturize using a cream specifically made for that. Usually eye cream are more lightweight than the lotions made for face. They’re also suitable for sensitive skin and they don’t irritate eyes. Take this from someone (me) who’s tried a face lotion around their eyes – never again! Just buy the eye cream.

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+ If you want your eye cream to be extra refreshing store it in the fridge. You can also try cold spoons. Cold helps with the puffiness.

Massage helps with the puffiness and is a lovely way to pamper yourself. Instructions.

You should get an eye cream as soon as you start wearing makeup. Maybe even sooner if you suffer from dark circles, puffiness or dryness. There are lightweight gels for young skin that help with the puffiness. Mature skin needs more and a rich cream may be a better choice. I have always loved gels so these recommendations are mostly them.

The prices are directional. That’s what they cost in Finland.

Lumene Arctic Aqua Deep Moisture Eye Gel 15 ml / 9,40 € Lightweight / For young skin

This was my first eye cream ever and it was a great choice for that. It’s lightweight, refreshing and moisturizing. Edit: I’m not sure if it’s sold anymore in that name. It may be Lähde Pure Dew Drops  (19.90€) now.

Clarins Eye Contour Gel 20 ml/ 30-40€  Lightweight yet effective / For young & mature skin / Luxury

This is a light gel yet it’s really long lasting and moisturizing. Clarins is more of a luxury brand but this product comes in a basic white tube which is the only downside to this.

Missha Super Aqua Ultra Water-Full 30ml / 21,90€ / Best price-quality ratio / Gel-cream /  *Pr-sample

One of the most effective eye gels I’ve tried. This is a gel-cream which makes it more efficient than those mentioned above. It’s price-quality ratio is great. Usually eye creams come in a small jar but this is nearly the size of a face cream! This makes the skin silky smooth and works great under makeup too.

EkoPharma Herukka Eye Cream 15ml / 30€ Organic & professional cosmetics

I’ve tried both the Raspberry and the Blackcurrant lines from EkoPharma. Raspberry is moisturizing and Blackcurrant is for sensitive skin. The Raspberry eye gel did irritate my eyes a bit but the blackcurrant lotion works just great. It’s a great moisturizer and it leaves my skin soft. The best thing about it is of course it being organic cosmetics. It’s a bit pricey though compared to Missha’s. Half the size yet the price is higher.

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Now is the time to share your favorite product recommendations or tips to taking care of your eyes! What’s the best eye makeup remover? What about eye creams? Does anyone use eye masks?

Photos Inka Lähteenaro