The ultimate makeup trick for hooded & deep set eyes

Guys, I have breaking news.

It’s about eyeshadow application. I finally learned the trick, on how to apply eyeshadow to my deep set/hooded eyes. My eyes have a very little of visible lid space. Just a small gap. So applying the dark eyeshadows on the ‘crease’, as typical, has never worked for me. Actually, the typical rules in general haven’t really worked for me. With deep set or hooded eyes – you have to do things a little differently.

And even though I’m a professional, I’ve struggled with my own eye shape. Getting it sometimes right, but most of the time just kind of shooting in the dark, not understanding the logic behind my actions. Okay, I made it sound super serious. But it is! It’s life and death here – eyeshadow, life and death.

So let’s get to the visual part of it. I’m gonna teach you exactly how to apply eyeshadow for hooded eyes, deep set eyes, monolids or just for eyes, that have a little of visible lid space. This trick is also a bit universal, so it works for anyone, who wants to make her/his eyes appear bigger.

And might I just add, humbly of course, that this is the best eye shadow trick I have shared on my blog so far.

makeup blog hooded eyes

The ultimate makeup trick for deep set or hooded eyes

Forget about the crease

As you can see, with my eye shape, my crease is super low. Those grey dots in the first picture show you my crease. I’ve parted ways with it a long time ago – deepening my actual crease just makes my eyes look smaller and even though my eyes are just the right size, I don’t want them to be any smaller. So, forget about the crease.

eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes

Follow your natural bone structure

How to apply eyeshadow for any eye shape? Follow your natural bone structure – just like you do with contour and highlight. It’s no different from that really! It’s all about playing with the natural contours of your eye and putting the shadow where it naturally occurs. Which, in this case, forms right below my brow bone. These photos are a bit dark on purpose, because I wanted to show you the natural shadows that occur on my eyes. I marked it with grey dots in the second picture.

find your brow bone

Find your natural shadow – it’s right below your brow bone

To get this absolutely right, you need to find the exact spot. You can find it with your finger – you can feel where the bone ends and the eye sinks a little. Or you can go to a room, where the lighting is a bit dim and see, where that shadow forms on your eye. You can see it super clearly that way, as you can see from these pictures. Lately I’ve actually taken my makeup brush, walked to our hallway (where it’s that dim lighting) and drew on that eyeshadow exactly where that shadow hits me. Then I’ve just gotten back to my makeup table – it makes the eyeshadow application so much easier, once I have those ‘boundaries’ on.

The reason this makes any eyeshadow look better, is because it looks more natural. Since we’ve been following our natural bone structure, the makeup kind of looks as if it belongs there. Right? Even the blending looks softer this way – almost as if the bone structure would give it an extra boost (spoiler alert: it does).

ultimate eyeshadow trick

Here is a close up to show you exactly the trick. See how high you can actually pull up the eyeshadow? It’s nowhere near that natural crease or fold.

ultimate makeup trick for hooded eyes

Now here is a very simple eye shadow tutorial using this trick.

Simple eye shadow tutorial for deep set & hooded eyes

hooded eyes makeup trick tutorial

  1. Contour the eye by following your natural bone structure. Use a matte shade. Create the ‘crease’ where a natural shadow occurs. That is where your color should be the darkest. Fill in the color in the outer corner and blend well, so that the contour looks soft and nice. Apply some color to your lower lashline as well, but it keep it subtle (unless you like the drama).
  2. Apply the lid color all over the lid all the way to the fake crease. Blend the edges carefully, so that, again, it looks soft and nice. But don’t let the shimmery color (if used) get to your crease area, because that color should be matte.
  3. Apply the inner corner highlight, liner, and mascara. I did a soft blended liner with black eyeshadow.

hooded and deep set eyes eyeshadow hooded and deep set eyes eyeshadow

I hope this post was as helpful to you, as it was for me to figure out this thing. Let me know in the comments! 


The eyeshadow palette I used in this tutorial is *Too Faced Chocolate Bar Palette. It’s an awesome palette with just enough neutral, warm & cool shades, some glitter and some blue. The pigment is great and the colors are very blendable. And it smells like chocolate. I mean, do I need to say more?

And as always, the base for my eyeshadow was *Urban Decay Primer Potion. It keeps the eyeshadow locked in place all day.

As for eyeshadow and makeup brushes, my favorite brushes are from *Zoeva. I use Zoeva brushes almost every day. But there are also affordable options – I can warmly recommend *Coastal Scents 22 brush set. It’s what I bought for myself as my very first brush set and still use it too.

And hey – happy Valentines’s day! I’m gonna do a little date night thing with Risto, eating dinner at home in a candle light. So cheesy, but so lovely.

Makeup for blue eyes

makeup for blue eyes

I’m always one to say, that whatever your eye colour is, use whatever colours you like. And many colours actually do suit different eye colours. But for someone just starting with makeup and eyeshadow, it can be helpful to know a little something about eye colours and how to pair them with the best suitable colours.

In this post I will give you makeup tips for blue eyes. I love blue eyes – there is just something mesmerizing about them – no wonder my man has beautiful big blue eyes. Blue is also an easy colour to bring out, and you can enhance your eyes with eyeshadow colours.

Basically you just need to use some knowledge you have about colours and pair them accordingly. Also an important note is this: Is your eye colour more warm or cool -toned? If it’s cool, you can use warm colours, to get the biggest impact – or cool colours, if you want your look to be more harmonious.

What colours suit blue eyes?

complementery colours for blue

The complementary eyeshadow colours are bronze, golden and orange, so basically you can’t go wrong with warm brown shades. Blue as a colour is somewhat cool, so pairing it with warm complimentary colour really makes it stand out.

analogous colours for blue

You can also try analogous colours, such as blue or purple eyeshadow for blue eyes. That doesn’t make the eye colour stand out as much as using complementary colours, but it looks really nice and harmonious.

grey colours

Another great colour for blue eyes is grey. It makes your eyes look super icy blue and it’s great for those, who prefer cool tones.

What if my eyes are blue AND green?

I feel you, and I’m one of those people. Basically you can bring out the blue in your eyes using these same tricks and you can also follow the rules for green eyes, to bring out the green in your eyes. It’s a win win! I find that since my eyes are blue-green and leaning more to warm than cool – I can make the blue in my eyes stand out the most with cool tones such as purple (maybe that’s why it’s also one of my favorite eyeshadow colours).

Makeup for blue eyes

This makeup tutorial is a very basic tutorial for blue eyes – I’m using warm brown colours with gold and bronze. These colours really make the eye colour pop! I also paired this look with a fun blue liner (I just couldn’t  help myself, since I got this new liner as a present and I’m obsessed with blue), but you can obviously skip that or replace that with a regular black liner.

makeup for blue eyes tutorial

Step 1: First, apply a light warm brown shade on your lower lashline and on your crease-area as shown in the photo. Take a darker shade and deepen that colour. This is your eye shadow ‘base’. Blend these colour well.

Step 2: Apply a bronze and a golden shade on your lid, half and half. Pat it on to get the most pigment.

Step 3: Apply some light shimmer in your inner corner and line your eyes.

And there is that! Any blue-eyes ladies out there? What is your favorite eyeshadow colour? Any favourite palettes?

best makeup for blue eyes

This makeup and my photo with the visible acne/scarring got a lot of likes on my insta (@charlottaeve). I’m still proudly wearing my imperfect skin – and didn’t want to edit it for this tutorial either. Makeup is about so much more, than being perfect. For anyone suffering from acne: don’t let it stop you from playing with makeup and enjoying it.

blue eyes makeup tips


Urban Decay Primer Potion Original
NYX Perfect Filter Palette, Golden Hour
NYX Vivid Brights liner, Sapphire

Holika Holika Wonder Drawing Skinny Eyebrow, 02

Scroll to top