In this post I will show you how to work with deep set eyes. When the brow bone is prominent and the eye is deep in the skull, it can look small. With makeup you can bring out the eye and actually make it look at least twice as big.
As I’ve said before – we all have unique eye shapes and usually they’re a mixture of different eye shapes. Even the same eye shape can look totally different on a different face. I have done a post about my eye shape, which is deep set and just slightly hooded. Now here is my friend Suvi’s eyes: they are deep set too. But our eyes are still very different. My eyes are not as deep set and there’s slightly more visible lid space showing – with Suvi’s eyes the lid is more hidden.
If you have hooded eyes, you can use the same tricks. Deep set eyes and hooded eyes are kinda similar, when it comes to makeup application.
Here’s what we’re gonna do:
Concealer is important for anyone, but especially for deep set eyes. The eye shape already creates shadows on the eyes and emphasizes the dark circles. If you’re not sure how to conceal properly, check out this helpful post about it.
Crease colour | Contouring the eye
Here is where you should contour your eye. Definitely above the actual crease – almost right under the brows, but do leave a small gap there. I used a slightly warm peachy colour. A warm colour works well, when you want to soften the area and not draw too much attention to it. Use a matte shade!
Use matte shades to sculpt the eye
Here is the area, you want to contour with matte shades. You don’t want to bring shimmer to the area, you’re trying to ‘hide’.
Lid colour placement
In this particular makeup I applied the lid colours as shown. I think you can play with colours here as much as you like! Even though it’s not that visible when the eye is open, there is room to surprise your audience every time you blink. The only important thing here, is to bring the eye shadow high enough, so that some of it shows, when the eye is open. Make sure the blend the lid colour to your crease colour, so it looks nice and blended.
Leave the lower lashline light
If you use a dark shade on your lower lashline, the eye kinda sinks a bit deeper. So keep it quite light – or at least lighter than the lid colours. But don’t leave it completely bare – applying the same colour on your lower lashline, that you used on your lid and crease, will make the makeup look more put together.
+ Lashes are important
They just really, really make a difference in bringing out the eye.
Now to the pictorial. I used purple and gold to bring out Suvi’s blue eyes and to make the look more fun.
I think the pictorial speaks for itself, but basically I followed my own rules and first contoured the eye above the crease and slightly under the brow with a peach colour. Then I used purple shade all over the lid and blended that high enough, so that some of it shows when the eye is open. The purple shade is matte. I added a pop of colour in the inner part of the eye and blended that with the purple colour, so that the transition is subtle. Same goes to the lower lash line. I added a highlight to the inner corner, lined the eyes, applied mascara and finally some big lashes.
Isn’t she gorgeous? There was some serious model material on my camera after this session. Thank you Suvi for being my model! Suvi writes a lifestyle blog (in Finnish) as well called Daily Chic – make sure to check that out.
I used mainly organic products from Zuii, since my model is very interested in natural makeup products and wanted to try those out.
Urban Decay Primer Potion
Makeup Geek Eyeshadow, Peach Smoothie
Zuii Organic Eyeshadows, Blackberry,
Alima Pure Kajal, Ink
Ardell Lashes, Wispies
NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer, Custard & Vanilla
Zuii Organic Makeup Powder, Creme
Zuii Organic Blush, Melon
Zuii Organic Lipstick, Sheer Peach
+ a clear gloss on top
Hopefully you learned something new here! What do you think of this look?