I cracked the eyeshadow code – The ultimate makeup trick

how to apply eye shadow for eyes with little visible lid space

Guys, I have breaking news.

It’s about eyeshadow application. I finally learned the trick, on how to apply eyeshadow to my deep set/hooded eyes. My eyes have a very little of visible lid space. Just a small gap. So applying the dark eyeshadows on the ‘crease’, as typical, has never worked for me. Actually, the typical rules in general haven’t really worked for me.

And even though I’m a professional, I’ve struggled with my own eye shape. Getting it sometimes right, but most of the time just kind of shooting in the dark, not understanding the logic behind my actions. Okay, I made it sound super serious. But it is! It’s life and death here – eyeshadow, life and death.

So let’s get to the visual part of it. I’m gonna teach you exactly how to apply eyeshadow for hooded eyes, deep set eyes, monolids or just for eyes, that have a little of visible lid space. This trick is also a bit universal, so it works for anyone, who wants to make her/his eyes appear bigger.

And might I just add, humbly of course, that this is the best eye shadow trick I have shared on my blog so far.

eyeshadow trick best

eyeshadow crease

Forget about the crease

As you can see with my eye shape, my crease is super low. I’ve parted ways with it a long time ago – deepening my actual crease just makes my eyes look smaller and even though my eyes are just the right size, I don’t want them to be any smaller. So, forget about the crease.

eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes

Follow your natural bone structure

How to apply eyeshadow for any eye shape? Follow your natural bone structure – just like you do with contour and highlight. It’s no different from that really! It’s all about playing with the natural contours of your eye and putting the shadow where it naturally occurs. Which, in this case, forms right below your brow bone.

find your brow bone

Find your natural shadow – it’s right below your brow bone

To get this absolutely right, you need to find the exact spot. You can find it with your finger – you can feel where the bone ends and the eye sinks a little. Or you can go to a room, where the lighting is a bit dim and see, where that shadow forms on your eye. You can see it super clearly that way, as you can see from these pictures. Lately I’ve actually taken my makeup brush, walked to our hallway (where it’s that dim lighting) and drew on that eyeshadow exactly where that shadow hits me. Then I’ve just gotten back to my makeup table – it makes the eyeshadow application so much easier, once I have those ‘boundaries’ on.

The reason this makes any eyeshadow look better, is because it looks more natural. Since we’ve been following our natural bone structure, the makeup kind of looks as if it belongs there. Right? Even the blending looks softer this way – almost as if the bone structure would give it an extra boost (spoiler alert: it does).

contour for eyes
My eyeshadow has never looked this good.

Now here is a very simple eye shadow tutorial using this trick. I used just three shades: light brown, pink and light pink glittery inner corner highlight.

the ultimate eye shadow tutorial

  1. Contour the eye by following your natural bone structure. Use a matte shade. Create the ‘crease’ where a natural shadow occurs. That is where your color should be the darkest. Fill in the color in the outer corner and blend well, so that the contour looks soft and nice. Apply some color to your lower lashline as well, but it keep it subtle (unless you like the drama).
  2. Apply the lid color all over the lid all the way to the fake crease. Blend the edges carefully, so that, again, it looks soft and nice. But don’t let the shimmery color (if used) get to your crease area, because that color should be matte.
  3. Apply the inner corner highlight, liner if you want and a mascara and or fake lashes. Again, hallelujah for my lash extensions, thanks to @kosmetologianu.

eyeshadow tutorial for hooded eyes
Congratulations, it’s two for one today! So… Okay, I made two pictorials. But I kind of like this version, where you can see both eyes. And this shows the colors better. What do you think? Skip the extra pictures? Too picture heavy? No? Yes?

makeup blog tutorial

I hope this post was as helpful to you, as it was for me to figure out this thing. Let me know in the comments! 

By the way, I’m wearing my go-to foundation in this look, which I talked about on this post and I also wore my new favorite brow product, which I wrote about on this post. The eyeshadows used for this look were all from my Too Faced x NikkieTutorials The Power of Makeup palette. I’ve been using it a ton lately.

And hey – happy Valentines’s day! I’m gonna do a little date night thing with Risto, eating dinner at home in a candle light. So cheesy, but so lovely.

Easy eyeshadow tutorial: Purple and light pink

beauty blog tutorials

I love purple eye shadow. I think it compliments the blue in my eyes. This is one of my go-to looks, using purple and a touch of pink. This is super easy and quick to do, so it’s definitely beginner friendly.

Even though I’m using bright colors such as pink and purple here, the look is still quite wearable. You can modify it to suit your needs, maybe change the colors completely or skip the liner – whatever works for you.

I’ve been wearing this eye shadow look various times, only changing some bits to it: adding more purple and blending it higher than in this tutorial, changing the color of my liner (brown works perfectly with this!) and adding colors to it such as gold and brown. But when in a hurry or just in a simplistic mode, this only takes a moment to create. I even skipped the fake eyelashes this time.

Let’s get to my tips to creating this easy makeup:

easy eyeshadow

  1. Prime the lids and set the primer with a powder unless it’s already matte. That helps the blending, because powder eye shadow tends to stick to a cream.
  2. Add a white eye shadow to your inner corners and blend carefully. Use a small brush, since you’re operating on a small area.
  3. Apply pink eye shadow right next to your inner corners and about halfway of your lid. You can use medium sized flat brush. To get the best color payoff, tap the color on rather than swiping. I blended carefully with tapping motions at the edges of the color.
  4. Apply purple eye shadow next to the pink one. Bring the color all the way to your outer V. Blend this out – now it’s okay to use a bigger movement. I recommend using a tapered but fluffy brush for blending.
  5. Apply the same purple eye shadow to your lower lid. I left it quite light. Use small brush here too.
  6. Finish the look with a black liner and a coat of mascara. All done beautiful!

Now in case I lost you in that ‘Outer V’ part, here’s what I meant:what is outer v

This is the basic outer v. That is where you typically bring darker shades and where you contour your eye. Now you can vary this by making it tilt more up = a cat eye or bring it higher up = fake a crease. With my eye shape I’m always bringing it higher than my actual crease (fold).

If you’re interested in how I did the rest of my makeup, here is a tutorial to my acne-friendly makeup routine, that I’m wearing here!

Zuii Organic Eyeshadows Pink Ice, Blossom, Blackberry
Zuii Organic Eye Pencil in Black
Essence Get Big Lashes + I love Extreme mascaras