Do’s and Don’ts for deep set eyes (and lightly hooded eyes)

do's and don'ts for deep set eyes

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I’ve done quite a few tutorials for deep set and hooded eyes, but this time I thought I could also show you what not to do. Showing you side by side the “dos” and the “don’ts” can be helpful in mastering your eyeshadow technique!

I was actually inspired to do this tutorial when I saw a magazine cover with a model who had very deep set eyes. Her makeup (in my opinion) was not done right and it emphasized the hood and overall was not very flattering. Inside the magazine there was an interview and a photo of her without makeup. I noticed that her eyes didn’t look that deep set on the no-makeup photo and she actually looked better without the makeup (again, my opinion). It just goes to show how powerful makeup can be. It’s all about working with what you got and knowing what works and what doesn’t.

And to be frank, I actually have made a lot of makeup mistakes, when it comes to my eyes. And I’m gonna go through those mistakes now, step by step!

warm reddish eye makeup for deep set eyes

 

Do’s and don’ts for deep set eyes / hooded eyes

deep set eyes with slight hood and prominent brow bone

So here are my eyes. I have a bit of visible lid space (shown with white dots). If you have hooded eyes, you might not have a visible lid at all. Above it I have a slight hood (shown with orange dots), where my skin droops on my lid. This is also my crease. But in my eyes the most noticeable feature is the big prominent area (shown with brown dots), which pushes forward above the hood. And I like to shade that to balance my eyes a bit. So instead of shading my actual crease, I imagine my crease is somewhere in that prominent area and I do my makeup accordingly.

Let’s go through some do’s and don’ts for deep set eyes.

 

dos and donts for deep set eyes makeup

Don’t apply dark eyeshadow only on the visible lid

See what this does to my eye? It sinks it in even further. And see what else happens? The hood and the prominent area appears even more prominent.
The contrast between my skin and that dark eyeshadow is quite big, making my hood and prominent area come forward even more (because they are a lighter color).

Do keep your eye open when applying your eyeshadow

how to apply eyeshadow on deep set eyes tips

The most important thing for both deep set and hooded eyes is this: keep your eye open while applying your shadow! The whole idea is to hide the hood so you need to apply the shadow both on top of the hood and slightly above it. Enough so, that your eye gets a nice lift. Keep your eye open so that you can see how high you need to lift the shadow, in order it to show a little (and work!). I might bring it even further than that, since I have so much real estate.

 

Don’t just line your lower lid with a dark eyeshadow – Do take advantage of that space and smoke it out! 

do's and don'ts for deep set eyes

Here might just be the reason why people are afraid of a smokey eye. When done wrong, it makes the eye appear smaller – exactly what happened here. By lifting up the shadow and smoking out that lower lid, my eyes look huge and more round!

 

Do lift up the eye by darkening the outer V

lifting up deep set eyes how to

This trick actually works for downturned eyes too. It’s all about lifting up the outer part of the eye in a V-shape towards the end of your brow. Now how to find the right spot? I keep my eye open, look straight ahead determine where I need to add that shadow in order to get a nice V-shape. You can compare the side by side photo and you can see the spot, where I should have lifted the shadow. It needs to be lifted on top of that hood.

 

Do use shimmer to your advantage

This might just be personal preference, but I like to emphasize my visible lid space by adding a touch of light shimmer there. It also rounds up my eyes. Another reason is that I’m not looking to change my eye shape – just make the most of it. When I don’t have makeup on, you can see my lid (even though it’s small). So with makeup I also like it to be enhanced.

 

And that’s about it! I think the biggest thing is to really look at the makeup, eyes open, eyes relaxed. Is it doing what it should be doing (enhancing your eyes and giving them a lift? Or are you sinking your eyes even deeper with a bad technique? Hopefully this post gave you some ideas and clarity on doing makeup for deep set eyes.

 

Reddish brown makeup for deep set and slightly hooded eyes

deep set eyes makeup tutorial

So now that you know all the tricks, here is a warm reddish brown eye makeup tutorial.

  1. Prime your eyes and add a matte color all over the eye. Bring it as high as you need to, in order to hide the hood and in my case, the prominent area. Blend the edges so that it’s nice and smokey.
  2. Deepen the outer corner in a V-shape, so that your eye gets a nice lift. A matte dark color will be fine for this. Blend.
  3. Add a touch of shimmer right on the center of your lid, where it’s visible when your eye is open.
  4. Line your eyes lightly and add mascara. All ready!

Now when it comes to the makeup products, three things help you succeed: primer, eyeshadow and brushes. I use the classic *Urban Decay primer, just because it makes my eyeshadow stay the whole day and night. For eyeshadows, I like ones that have enough pigment, but are still blendable. Three of my most used eyeshadow brands are Too Faced, NYX and Illamasqua. In this particular tutorial I used a Morphe palette, which I also like quite a bit.

Eyeshadow palettes I love:
*Illamasqua Unveiled Nude Artistry Palette (US,CA) *Illamasqua Unveiled Artistry Palette (UK)
*NYX Perfect Filter Palettes
*Too Faced Gingerbread Extra Spicy Palette

Makeup brushes I use:
*Coastal Scent Brush Set (this brush set is what I started with)
*Zoeva rose gold brush set (more expensive, but more quality too)

Products used in the makeup:
NARS Soft Matte Concealer, Custard
Madara Concealer, Vanilla
Madara Skin Equal Soft Glow Foundation, 50
*Madara City CC SPF 15 (US, CA) *Madara City CC SPF 15(UK)
*Laura Mercier Transluscent Powder
Boho Bronzer, Sunkissed Glow
Kjaer Weis Cream Blush, Above and Beyond
*Urban Decay Primer Potion
Morphe 3502 palette
Boho Lipstick, 204 Orchidee

 

How to: makeup for round deep set eyes

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Different tricks work for different eye shapes. When determining your eye shape, you should look at the main features of your eyes and do your makeup accordingly. What do you want to emphasize? What do you want to hide?

Today I’m talking about round eyesand to be more specificround deep set eyes. Round eyes are gorgeous. They appear big and open. It’s totally fine to emphasize the roundness of the eye, but balancing the shape with a cat eye styled makeup works too.  It elongates the eye and balances the shape, making it appear more almond shaped.

Round eyes can also be protruding, in which case my post makeup for protruding eyes can be more helpful. But here my model’s eyes were more deep set. Her atopic skin actually sometimes makes her lids swell a bit, which makes her lids a bit hooded. Still, they appear big, as round eyes typically do. If your eye shape looks similar to my model’s, this post is for you!

 

You’ll find tutorials for deep set & hooded, downturned and protruding eyes on my blog.

How to: makeup for round deep set eyes

Here is a before and after where you can see the shape that I’m going for. Linda’s eye is pretty round in the inner part of the eye, so I’m balancing that out by bringing some definition to the outer part of the eye.

round deep set eyes makeup elongating eye

Here I’m trying to explain the shape even further. Normally the shape of the eye is pretty round, but when I shade it on the area shown with orange dots, I’m making the eye appear more almond shaped.

Obviously this is not the only way to apply eyeshadow to this particular eye shape. You could also emphasize the roundness of the eye and not make the V in the outer corner. But in my opinion, this style suits the eye.

deep set round eyes makeup how to

Everyday makeup tutorial for round deep set eyes

makeup for deep set round eyes tutorial

  1. Contour the eye minimally in the crease using a light brown shade.
  2. Create a V-shape in the outer corner using a brown matte shade. Blend it well. You can also blend it more later once you have the lid color.
  3. Apply a shimmery lid color all over your lid. Blend the outer corner color to your shimmer lightly.
  4. Shade your lower lashline a bit using a light brown.
  5. Line your eyes and add mascara. Done.

 

I also have this more festive gold glitter makeup for you. Here I used warm colors.

Festive gold glitter makeup for round deep set eyes

gold glitter makeup for round eyes

This look I did earlier on Linda for a Makeup Monday post, but the photos didn’t turn quite right. In hindsight, since my model’s eyes are a bit deep set, I shouldn’t have brought the shadow on the lid as far as I did here. Oh well. It was still a nice look and most important thing – my model was happy.

  1. Prime the eye. Start shading the crease and outer corner with a warm orange shade and blend well. Don’t pull the shadow too high, but just enough, so that some of it shows when the eye is open. Leave the lid bare (for glitter!)
  2. Slowly deepen that color by choosing a darker color than the one you used before. The darkest color is dark brown and that should be concentrated only on the outer corner and outer part of the lid, to get that elongated eye effect.
  3. Finally add glitter glue and press glitter on the lid. If you don’t have glitter, a shimmery eyeshadow will also look gorgeous applied on top of a glitter glue.
  4. Line the eye with a black pencil and add mascara. Done.

 

 

Product recommendations:

My go-to eyeshadow palettes:
*NYX Perfect Filter Golden Hour Palette
*Illamasqua Nude Collection Unveiled Artistry Palette
*Pressed glitter palette BeautyGlazed

*Eyeko Lash Alert Mascara (on Linda’s lashes here)

Makeup brushes:
*Zoeva €€
*Coastal Scents 22 brush set

If you have atopic skin, you might want to check out the Makeup Monday post that Linda featured on.

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