I cracked the eyeshadow code – The ultimate makeup trick

how to apply eye shadow for eyes with little visible lid space

Guys, I have breaking news.

It’s about eyeshadow application. I finally learned the trick, on how to apply eyeshadow to my deep set/hooded eyes. My eyes have a very little of visible lid space. Just a small gap. So applying the dark eyeshadows on the ‘crease’, as typical, has never worked for me. Actually, the typical rules in general haven’t really worked for me. With deep set or hooded eyes – you have to do things a little differently.

And even though I’m a professional, I’ve struggled with my own eye shape. Getting it sometimes right, but most of the time just kind of shooting in the dark, not understanding the logic behind my actions. Okay, I made it sound super serious. But it is! It’s life and death here – eyeshadow, life and death.

So let’s get to the visual part of it. I’m gonna teach you exactly how to apply eyeshadow for hooded eyes, deep set eyes, monolids or just for eyes, that have a little of visible lid space. This trick is also a bit universal, so it works for anyone, who wants to make her/his eyes appear bigger.

And might I just add, humbly of course, that this is the best eye shadow trick I have shared on my blog so far.

The ultimate makeup trick for deep set or hooded eyes

eyeshadow trick best

eyeshadow crease

Forget about the crease

As you can see, with my eye shape, my crease is super low. Those grey dots in the first picture show you my crease. I’ve parted ways with it a long time ago – deepening my actual crease just makes my eyes look smaller and even though my eyes are just the right size, I don’t want them to be any smaller. So, forget about the crease.

eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes

Follow your natural bone structure

How to apply eyeshadow for any eye shape? Follow your natural bone structure – just like you do with contour and highlight. It’s no different from that really! It’s all about playing with the natural contours of your eye and putting the shadow where it naturally occurs. Which, in this case, forms right below my brow bone. These photos are a bit dark on purpose, because I wanted to show you the natural shadows that occur on my eyes. I marked it with grey dots in the second picture.

find your brow bone

Find your natural shadow – it’s right below your brow bone

To get this absolutely right, you need to find the exact spot. You can find it with your finger – you can feel where the bone ends and the eye sinks a little. Or you can go to a room, where the lighting is a bit dim and see, where that shadow forms on your eye. You can see it super clearly that way, as you can see from these pictures. Lately I’ve actually taken my makeup brush, walked to our hallway (where it’s that dim lighting) and drew on that eyeshadow exactly where that shadow hits me. Then I’ve just gotten back to my makeup table – it makes the eyeshadow application so much easier, once I have those ‘boundaries’ on.

The reason this makes any eyeshadow look better, is because it looks more natural. Since we’ve been following our natural bone structure, the makeup kind of looks as if it belongs there. Right? Even the blending looks softer this way – almost as if the bone structure would give it an extra boost (spoiler alert: it does).

contour for eyes
My eyeshadow has never looked this good.

Now here is a very simple eye shadow tutorial using this trick. I used just three shades: light brown, pink and light pink glittery inner corner highlight.

Simple eye shadow tutorial for deep set & hooded eyes

the ultimate eye shadow tutorial

  1. Contour the eye by following your natural bone structure. Use a matte shade. Create the ‘crease’ where a natural shadow occurs. That is where your color should be the darkest. Fill in the color in the outer corner and blend well, so that the contour looks soft and nice. Apply some color to your lower lashline as well, but it keep it subtle (unless you like the drama).
  2. Apply the lid color all over the lid all the way to the fake crease. Blend the edges carefully, so that, again, it looks soft and nice. But don’t let the shimmery color (if used) get to your crease area, because that color should be matte.
  3. Apply the inner corner highlight, liner if you want and a mascara and or fake lashes. Again, hallelujah for my lash extensions, thanks to @kosmetologianu.

eyeshadow tutorial for hooded eyes
Congratulations, it’s two for one today! So… Okay, I made two pictorials. But I kind of like this version, where you can see both eyes. And this shows the colors better. What do you think? Skip the extra pictures? Too picture heavy? No? Yes?

makeup blog tutorial

I hope this post was as helpful to you, as it was for me to figure out this thing. Let me know in the comments! 

By the way, I’m wearing my go-to foundation in this look, which I talked about on this post and I also wore my new favorite brow product, which I wrote about on this post. The eyeshadows used for this look were all from my Too Faced x NikkieTutorials The Power of Makeup palette. I’ve been using it a ton lately.

And hey – happy Valentines’s day! I’m gonna do a little date night thing with Risto, eating dinner at home in a candle light. So cheesy, but so lovely.

How to bring out deep set eyes – Tutorial

Before after makeup deep set eyes

how to bring out very deep set eyes with makeup

how to bring out deep set eyes

In this post I will show you how to work with deep set eyes. When the brow bone is prominent and the eye is deep in the skull, it can look small. With makeup you can bring out the eye and actually make it look at least twice as big.

As I’ve said before – we all have unique eye shapes and usually they’re a mixture of different eye shapes. Even the same eye shape can look totally different on a different face. I have done a post about my eye shape, which is deep set and just slightly hooded. Now here is my friend Suvi’s eyes: they are deep set too. But our eyes are still very different. My eyes are not as deep set and there’s slightly more visible lid space showing – with Suvi’s eyes the lid is more hidden.

If you have hooded eyes, you can use the same tricks. Deep set eyes and hooded eyes are kinda similar, when it comes to makeup application.

Here’s what we’re gonna do: 

small eyes bigger with makeup

Before&After.

concealer deep set eyes

Concealer
Concealer is important for anyone, but especially for deep set eyes. The eye shape already creates shadows on the eyes and emphasizes the dark circles. If you’re not sure how to conceal properly, check out this helpful post about it.

how to eye shadow crease colour for deep set eyes

Crease colour | Contouring the eye
Here is where you should contour your eye. Definitely above the actual crease – almost right under the brows, but do leave a small gap there. I used a slightly warm peachy colour. A warm colour works well, when you want to soften the area and not draw too much attention to  it. Use a matte shade!

Use matte shades to sculpt the eye
Here is the area, you want to contour with matte shades. You don’t want to bring shimmer to the area, you’re trying to ‘hide’.

very deep set eyes eyeshadow application

Lid colour placement
In this particular makeup I applied the lid colours as shown. I think you can play with colours here as much as you like! Even though it’s not that visible when the eye is open, there is room to surprise your audience every time you blink. The only important thing here, is to bring the eye shadow high enough, so that some of it shows, when the eye is open. Make sure the blend the lid colour to your crease colour, so it looks nice and blended.

Leave the lower lashline light
If you use a dark shade on your lower lashline, the eye kinda sinks a bit deeper. So keep it quite light – or at least lighter than the lid colours. But don’t leave it completely bare – applying the same colour on your lower lashline, that you used on your lid and crease, will make the makeup look more put together.

+ Lashes are important

They just really, really make a difference in bringing out the eye.

deep set eyes makeup

Now to the pictorial. I used purple and gold to bring out Suvi’s blue eyes and to make the look more fun.

very deep set eyes makeup tutorial
I think the pictorial speaks for itself, but basically I followed my own rules and first contoured the eye above the crease and slightly under the brow with a peach colour. Then I used purple shade all over the lid and blended that high enough, so that some of it shows when the eye is open. The purple shade is matte. I added a pop of colour in the inner part of the eye and blended that with the purple colour, so that the transition is subtle. Same goes to the lower lash line. I added a highlight to the inner corner, lined the eyes, applied mascara and finally some big lashes.

how to bring out deep set eyes

makeup for very deep set eyes

Isn’t she gorgeous? There was some serious model material on my camera after this session. Thank you Suvi for being my model! Suvi writes a lifestyle blog (in Finnish) as well called Daily Chic – make sure to check that out.

I used mainly organic products from Zuii, since my model is very interested in natural makeup products and wanted to try those out.

PRODUCTS
Eyes

Urban Decay Primer Potion
Makeup Geek Eyeshadow, Peach Smoothie
Zuii Organic Eyeshadows, Blackberry,
Alima Pure Kajal, Ink
Ardell Lashes, Wispies
Face
NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer, Custard & Vanilla
Zuii Organic Makeup Powder, Creme
Zuii Organic Blush, Melon
Lips
Zuii Organic Lipstick, Sheer Peach
+ a clear gloss on top

Hopefully you learned something new here! What do you think of this look?