The ultimate makeup trick for hooded & deep set eyes

hooded eyes makeup trick

Guys, I have breaking news.

It’s about eyeshadow application. I finally learned the trick, on how to apply eyeshadow to my deep set/hooded eyes. My eyes have a very little of visible lid space. Just a small gap. So applying the dark eyeshadows on the ‘crease’, as typical, has never worked for me. Actually, the typical rules in general haven’t really worked for me. With deep set or hooded eyes – you have to do things a little differently.

And even though I’m a professional, I’ve struggled with my own eye shape. Getting it sometimes right, but most of the time just kind of shooting in the dark, not understanding the logic behind my actions. Okay, I made it sound super serious. But it is! It’s life and death here – eyeshadow, life and death.

So let’s get to the visual part of it. I’m gonna teach you exactly how to apply eyeshadow for hooded eyes, deep set eyes, monolids or just for eyes, that have a little of visible lid space. This trick is also a bit universal, so it works for anyone, who wants to make her/his eyes appear bigger.

And might I just add, humbly of course, that this is the best eye shadow trick I have shared on my blog so far.

makeup blog hooded eyes

The ultimate makeup trick for deep set or hooded eyes

Forget about the crease

As you can see, with my eye shape, my crease is super low. Those grey dots in the first picture show you my crease. I’ve parted ways with it a long time ago – deepening my actual crease just makes my eyes look smaller and even though my eyes are just the right size, I don’t want them to be any smaller. So, forget about the crease.

eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes

Follow your natural bone structure

How to apply eyeshadow for any eye shape? Follow your natural bone structure – just like you do with contour and highlight. It’s no different from that really! It’s all about playing with the natural contours of your eye and putting the shadow where it naturally occurs. Which, in this case, forms right below my brow bone. These photos are a bit dark on purpose, because I wanted to show you the natural shadows that occur on my eyes. I marked it with grey dots in the second picture.

find your brow bone

Find your natural shadow – it’s right below your brow bone

To get this absolutely right, you need to find the exact spot. You can find it with your finger – you can feel where the bone ends and the eye sinks a little. Or you can go to a room, where the lighting is a bit dim and see, where that shadow forms on your eye. You can see it super clearly that way, as you can see from these pictures. Lately I’ve actually taken my makeup brush, walked to our hallway (where it’s that dim lighting) and drew on that eyeshadow exactly where that shadow hits me. Then I’ve just gotten back to my makeup table – it makes the eyeshadow application so much easier, once I have those ‘boundaries’ on.

The reason this makes any eyeshadow look better, is because it looks more natural. Since we’ve been following our natural bone structure, the makeup kind of looks as if it belongs there. Right? Even the blending looks softer this way – almost as if the bone structure would give it an extra boost (spoiler alert: it does).

ultimate eyeshadow trick

Here is a close up to show you exactly the trick. See how high you can actually pull up the eyeshadow? It’s nowhere near that natural crease or fold.

ultimate makeup trick for hooded eyes

Now here is a very simple eye shadow tutorial using this trick.

Simple eye shadow tutorial for deep set & hooded eyes

hooded eyes makeup trick tutorial

  1. Contour the eye by following your natural bone structure. Use a matte shade. Create the ‘crease’ where a natural shadow occurs. That is where your color should be the darkest. Fill in the color in the outer corner and blend well, so that the contour looks soft and nice. Apply some color to your lower lashline as well, but it keep it subtle (unless you like the drama).
  2. Apply the lid color all over the lid all the way to the fake crease. Blend the edges carefully, so that, again, it looks soft and nice. But don’t let the shimmery color (if used) get to your crease area, because that color should be matte.
  3. Apply the inner corner highlight, liner, and mascara. I did a soft blended liner with black eyeshadow.

hooded and deep set eyes eyeshadow hooded and deep set eyes eyeshadow

I hope this post was as helpful to you, as it was for me to figure out this thing. Let me know in the comments! 

The eyeshadow palette I used in this tutorial is Too Faced Semi Sweet Chocolate Bar Palette*. It’s an awesome palette with just enough neutral, warm & cool shades, some glitter and some blue. The pigment is great and the colors are very blendable.

And hey – happy Valentines’s day! I’m gonna do a little date night thing with Risto, eating dinner at home in a candle light. So cheesy, but so lovely.

How to: Makeup for deep set & hooded eyes

hooded and deep set eyes makeup

Applying eyeshadow can be tricky, because we all have different eye shapes. My eye shape is a mixture of hooded eyes and deep set eyes. I’ve definitely struggled with eyeshadows, but through fail and error, I’ve learned some important things. When you’re working with hooded or deep set eyes, it’s all about making your eyes appear more open and balancing the area between your brows and your eyes.

Hooded & deep set makeup tips

hooded eye

Here you can see my eye shape. My eyes are a bit hooded, which you can see when I look straight and don’t lift my eyebrow at all. With hooded eyes the skin droops over the crease causing the lid to appear smaller. My lids also droop in the outer corner, making cat eyeliners impossible. My eyes are also deep set, which means my eyes are deeper into my skull making the brow bone more prominent.

Hooded eyes and deep set eyes are very similar, because in both cases you don’t have that much visible lid space. Your brow bone and the hooded lid are what’s drawing in the attention and your eyes can appear ‘sunken’. And gorgeous. But you knew that, right?

How to contour hooded and deep set eyes?

how to do eyeshadow for hooded eyes

When you’re applying eyeshadow on deep set or hooded eyes, you’re always bringing the color way above your natural crease. Here you can see my natural crease – and where I actually contour my eye. I think of that as my “contour area” or “crease”, even though my natural crease is way lower.

When you’re doing your makeup, make sure you can see some eyeshadow, when your eye is open and relaxed. Other than that, you can choose how high you want to bring the color. I always bring my color right where the natural shadow occurs under my brow bone (more on it on this post about my ultimate makeup trick!).

An open contour.

With my eye shape this is where I should contour. It’s definitely above the crease. A neutral matte shade balances the eye when it’s brought here. It’s almost, like I’m faking my crease and imagining it’s somewhere this high.

An open contour is quick and easy to do and with a more neutral shade, it looks quite natural. It’s almost like a shadow floating on your lids. Except it contours your eyes and does them wonders.

Whenever I’m doing my makeup I always open my eyes and see how it looks that way. I even apply the shadow eyes open to get it just right.

A closed contour/banana contour.

This is a very basic eyeshadow style – contouring the eye in a banana shape. This compliments all eye shapes. The only difference is, in how high you bring the color (obviously with hooded or deep set eyes you bring it above your natural crease).

This is exactly the same as above except the color is brought in the outer corner as well. This makes the eye appear wider and if you bring it even further you can do a cat eye.

This is my eyeshadow base, almost always. After I’ve done this banana contour on my eye, I can just ‘fill in’ the blank space with whatever colors I want.

On to the tutorial!
The base for this eye makeup is that banana contour. That is the highest I bring any color. I apply other colors inside that contour or on top of it.

Hooded & deep set eyes makeup tutorial using the Naked 3 palette

hooded eyes makeup

  1. Prime your lids and set the primer, so that it’s not sticky.
  2. Start to contour your eyes using first lighter and then darker colors. I used first ‘Limit’ and then ‘Nooner’. I did a banana-shaped contour as the base for my eyeshadow. I also brought ‘Nooner’ on my lower lashline.
  3. Add a darker color in the outer part of your eye and slightly all over your contour area. Almost like in a banana contour way, but don’t bring it that high, leave some ‘Nooner’ to show on the edges. I applied just a touch of it on my lower lashline as well.
  4. Fill in the blank lid space with a lighter color. I used ‘Liar’ and ‘Factory’ mixed.
  5. Add your inner corner highlight ‘Strange’, line your eyes and add mascara.

Color placement paint-version.

hooded eyes makeup tutorial

I hope you liked this tutorial and learned something new! I’m currently working (who counts the years, right?) on a beginner’s beauty guide which contains both skincare and makeup tutorials. When it’s available, I’ll announce it here on my blog.

PRODUCTS makeup used in this look

EYES&BROWS
Urban Decay Primer Potion*
Urban Decay Naked 3*
Elizabeth Arden Lasting Impression Mascara
mad4eyebrows eyebrow filler, Blond (blog post!)

FACE
Estee Lauder Double Wear Light* 3 (blog post!)
Lumene Nordic-C BB-Cream, Light/Medium
Catrice Liquid Camouflage Concealer*, 15 & 10 (blog post!)
Maybelline Masterfix Baking Powder
Innisfree no-sebum mineral powder
Benefit Hoola
KikoMilano Desert Dunes Baked Blush, Gypsy Pink
MAC Mineralize Skinfinish, Soft & Gentle

LIPS
Jane Iredale Lipstick, Jamie
KICKS Lip Cream, Monday