I cracked the eyeshadow code – The ultimate makeup trick

how to apply eye shadow for eyes with little visible lid space

Guys, I have breaking news.

It’s about eyeshadow application. I finally learned the trick, on how to apply eyeshadow to my deep set/hooded eyes. My eyes have a very little of visible lid space. Just a small gap. So applying the dark eyeshadows on the ‘crease’, as typical, has never worked for me. Actually, the typical rules in general haven’t really worked for me.

And even though I’m a professional, I’ve struggled with my own eye shape. Getting it sometimes right, but most of the time just kind of shooting in the dark, not understanding the logic behind my actions. Okay, I made it sound super serious. But it is! It’s life and death here – eyeshadow, life and death.

So let’s get to the visual part of it. I’m gonna teach you exactly how to apply eyeshadow for hooded eyes, deep set eyes, monolids or just for eyes, that have a little of visible lid space. This trick is also a bit universal, so it works for anyone, who wants to make her/his eyes appear bigger.

And might I just add, humbly of course, that this is the best eye shadow trick I have shared on my blog so far.

eyeshadow trick best

eyeshadow crease

Forget about the crease

As you can see with my eye shape, my crease is super low. I’ve parted ways with it a long time ago – deepening my actual crease just makes my eyes look smaller and even though my eyes are just the right size, I don’t want them to be any smaller. So, forget about the crease.

eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes

Follow your natural bone structure

How to apply eyeshadow for any eye shape? Follow your natural bone structure – just like you do with contour and highlight. It’s no different from that really! It’s all about playing with the natural contours of your eye and putting the shadow where it naturally occurs. Which, in this case, forms right below your brow bone.

find your brow bone

Find your natural shadow – it’s right below your brow bone

To get this absolutely right, you need to find the exact spot. You can find it with your finger – you can feel where the bone ends and the eye sinks a little. Or you can go to a room, where the lighting is a bit dim and see, where that shadow forms on your eye. You can see it super clearly that way, as you can see from these pictures. Lately I’ve actually taken my makeup brush, walked to our hallway (where it’s that dim lighting) and drew on that eyeshadow exactly where that shadow hits me. Then I’ve just gotten back to my makeup table – it makes the eyeshadow application so much easier, once I have those ‘boundaries’ on.

The reason this makes any eyeshadow look better, is because it looks more natural. Since we’ve been following our natural bone structure, the makeup kind of looks as if it belongs there. Right? Even the blending looks softer this way – almost as if the bone structure would give it an extra boost (spoiler alert: it does).

contour for eyes
My eyeshadow has never looked this good.

Now here is a very simple eye shadow tutorial using this trick. I used just three shades: light brown, pink and light pink glittery inner corner highlight.

the ultimate eye shadow tutorial

  1. Contour the eye by following your natural bone structure. Use a matte shade. Create the ‘crease’ where a natural shadow occurs. That is where your color should be the darkest. Fill in the color in the outer corner and blend well, so that the contour looks soft and nice. Apply some color to your lower lashline as well, but it keep it subtle (unless you like the drama).
  2. Apply the lid color all over the lid all the way to the fake crease. Blend the edges carefully, so that, again, it looks soft and nice. But don’t let the shimmery color (if used) get to your crease area, because that color should be matte.
  3. Apply the inner corner highlight, liner if you want and a mascara and or fake lashes. Again, hallelujah for my lash extensions, thanks to @kosmetologianu.

eyeshadow tutorial for hooded eyes
Congratulations, it’s two for one today! So… Okay, I made two pictorials. But I kind of like this version, where you can see both eyes. And this shows the colors better. What do you think? Skip the extra pictures? Too picture heavy? No? Yes?

makeup blog tutorial

I hope this post was as helpful to you, as it was for me to figure out this thing. Let me know in the comments! 

By the way, I’m wearing my go-to foundation in this look, which I talked about on this post and I also wore my new favorite brow product, which I wrote about on this post. The eyeshadows used for this look were all from my Too Faced x NikkieTutorials The Power of Makeup palette. I’ve been using it a ton lately.

And hey – happy Valentines’s day! I’m gonna do a little date night thing with Risto, eating dinner at home in a candle light. So cheesy, but so lovely.

How to: Makeup for deep set & hooded eyes


Applying eyeshadow can be tricky because we all have different eye shapes.  My eye shape is a mixture of hooded eyes and deep set eyes. On this post I will share my makeup tips on how to apply eyeshadow to them and how to balance them out and make them look brighter.

hooded eye

Here you can see my eye shape. My eyes are a bit hooded, which you can see when I look straight and don’t lift my eyebrow at all. With hooded eyes the skin droops over the crease causing the lid to appear smaller.   They’re also deep set, which means my eyes are deeper into my skull making the brow bone more prominent.

Hooded eye contour

An open contour. With my eye shape this is where I should contour. It’s definitely above the crease. A neutral matte shade balances the eye when it’s brought here.

Whenever I’m doing my makeup I always open my eyes and see how it looks this way – I even apply the shadow eyes open to get it just right.

Hooded eye contour

A banana contour. This is exactly the same as above except the color is brought in the outer corner as well. This makes the eye appear wider and if you bring it even further you can do a cat eye. A very good look that compliments my eye shape.

hooded deep set eyes contour

Because I contour above the crease I always bring the lid color quite high. Here you can see my real crease and how I’ve applied the shimmery lid color on top of it. The dots show where my contour shade goes. I think of that as my “contour area”.

makeup tutorial

This photo is a good example of how I take my makeup photos so that the eyeshadow is visible. Another favourite of mine is eyes closed.

On to the tutorial!
This is a simple eye shadow tutorial using the Naked3 palette. I think these blushed nudes suit any occasion and this kind of a neutral look is beautiful without it being too fancy.  This is a great look for work, upcoming valentine’s day or even to a party. This is a very simple, beginner friendly look.

valentines day makeup

naked3 tutorial

1.Prime your lids and set the primer with a light matte shade. I used ‘Strange’. Apply a light shimmery shade to the lid. I used ‘Burnout’ and ‘Buzz’ together.
2. Contour the eye with a darker matte shade in the crease (or above it) and on the lower lashline. Blend it well using circular and windshield movements. I used ‘Limit’ and a bit of ‘Nooner’. Line your eyes. I used a black pencil.
3. Add mascara (and lashes). All done!

Naked3 shades

Here you can see the brushes and shades used. I forgot to take a photo of my blending brush, but it’s a bigger and fluffier version of that brush in the last picture.


makeup tutorial

makeup tutorial

I hope you liked this tutorial and learned something new! I’m currently working on a beginner’s beauty guide which contains both skincare and makeup tutorials. It’s soon available and I’ll tell you more about it on my blog.

Here you can browse my previous tutorials.

PRODUCTS (contains adlinks)

Urban Decay Primer Potion
Naked 3
Zuii Organic Eye Pencil in Black
Ardell Demi Wispies Lashes
Kjaer Weis Mascara
NYX Tame&Frame Brow Pomade in Blonde

NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer, Vanilla
Clarins Everlasting Foundation in Sand
Make Up For Ever Pro Sculpting Palette in 30

Rimmel Provocalips in I’ll Call You