The safety of cosmetics is a hot topic in conversations and in media. Technically, however, all cosmetic products sold in EU are safe, because they all follow the same laws and regulations. There’s no divide between synthetic or natural beauty products – or luxury or drugstore products. Each and every product needs to fulfill the same standards. That’s pretty cool, if you ask me!
A lot of the time you see headlines about certain ingredients that are meant to spook you, but different chemicals are also evaluated and studied all the time. Some chemicals are banned, some are restricted and when it comes to for example UV-filters or approved colorants or preservatives, there are actual lists of ingredients you can use. That means you can not come up with your own UV-filter for example, use it and call it a UV-filter.
When you buy a lipstick or a body lotion, you probably look at the packaging, price and brand to determine if its safe and worth your money. Or maybe you buy the same brand over and over again, because it works for you and therefore you trust it? But just know that there are laws and regulations meant to ensure that your product is okay to use.
Let’s dive into the basics of how cosmetics legislation works.
What is Cosmetics Legislation?
In Europe, the primary law is the EU Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009). The laws and regulations set out the rules for production, marketing and sale of cosmetic products. These regulations are designed to protect consumer health from harmful chemicals and false claims.
Key Components of Cosmetics Legislation
1. Definition of Cosmetics
This text is pretty important to keep in mind, since it reminds you that cosmetic product can not work wonders, such as cure a disease. If a product promises something more than this (and by the way – all the claims should be proven too according to the technical document on cosmetic claims!), alarm bells should ring.
“Cosmetic product’ means any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours. “
2. Safety and Ingredients
One of the most crucial aspects of cosmetics legislation is ensuring that products are safe. Certain harmful substances are banned, and the use of some ingredients is restricted. There are specific lists for allowed colorants, preservatives, and UV filters.
Because there are so many ingredients in the world, it’s easy to believe every word you hear on the internet. I admit straight away that even I have been mislead and been avoiding some ingredients for nothing, while putting some ingredients on a pedestal. For example, before I was demonizing chemical sunscreens, while loving physical ones. Now I know better and I use both.
I know some ingredients have a “bad reputation”. Cosmetics work on the skin’s surface, which is a very effective barrier to the world. Products are not made to be absorbed really deep into our bodies. Some products are even meant to be washed right away. You should remember this when you’re worried about the ingredients’ safety.
3. Product Information File (PIF)
Each cosmetic product must have a Product Information File, which includes detailed information on the product’s composition, safety assessment, manufacturing methods, and proof of effect. This file must be readily available to regulatory authorities.
I can not stress enough how complex and thorough this file needs to be. Each ingredient needs to be assessed – even water, which is a chemical to this end. There are guidelines to good manufacturing methods that need to be met. You have to think of everything, when it comes to the product, pretty much. And also – not just anyone can do the safety assessment, it needs to be a professional (and there’s a definition also for what professional in this case means).
4. Notification and Market Surveillance
Before a cosmetic product can be sold, it must be registered in the Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP). This system allows authorities to monitor products and take action if safety concerns arise. However, products are not pre-approved; instead, the system relies on post-market surveillance.
This, in a way, is the tricky part of cosmetics legislation and the industry. No one pre-approves the product – it’s possibly evaluated while it’s already on the market. But keep in mind, all the information mentioned need to be in place. It’s such a task I have a hard time believing it’s super common to lie in your PIF or use banned or harmful chemicals. Then again – mistakes happen. Sometimes Tukes, who monitor the products in Finland, might find something. I think it’s more common to have wrongful claims made on products or unclear instructions on the products though.
5. Labeling and Claims (Marketing)
Cosmetics must be correctly labeled with information such as the list of ingredients, instructions for use, and any necessary warnings. Additionally, the claims made about the product (like “anti-aging” or “whitening”) must be substantiated by evidence to prevent misleading consumers. However, what you see all the time, are some claim based on a clinical trial, which in reality has meant 14 people and 14 days of usage and what they thought of the product. That’s good to keep in mind and stay critical, when it comes to claims.
There is some room for interpretation in the technical document, but it nicely outlines the boundaries of what can and cannot be said about the product. For example, you can not undermine other products or ingredients.
Every cosmetic product must have a designated “responsible person” within the EU. This can be the manufacturer, the importer, or a third party. The responsible person ensures compliance with all regulations, including safety assessments and correct labeling.
Importers and distributors also have some responsibility, for example in labeling and storing the products.
Useful links
CosIng
A great database for ingredients. If you want to know the functions of the different chemicals on your products, you can always check here.
SCCS
Scientific committee on consumer safety evaluate and give opinions on ingredients. Eventually they might make a suggestion on the safety of some ingredient and that may lead to changes on the legislation.
My thoughts on cosmetics legislation & choosing beauty products
Since I’ve learned more about the cosmetics legislation and beauty industry in general, I’ve become less restricted in what products I buy. I still tend to buy the same type of products, but I no longer “fear” certain chemicals or brands. My eyes have opened to the fact that we live in a beauty product heaven! There are so much options.
However, I still like to read the ingredient lists, because ingredients do have different effects. I mean, ingredients are what make the products and I’m so fascinated in that area (but that is kind of a different topic).
I hope I managed to ease your stress with this post, when you’re shopping for cosmetics. Don’t stress too much about your products being a certain way – clean, natural, synthetic, luxury or free from this and that. And – remember to stay critical of the claims made. If you have any questions, please ask them in the comment box!
